Additional Considerations
Stucco, waterproofing, wallboard, siding, and other finishes can be applied
directly to the foam surface, allowing a complete range of design options
that are available with traditional building techniques. However, you
need to consider the types of finishes you want to use and how you plan
to install them before filling the forms. I suggest you check with your
local building department for prior approval. Here are a few things
to think about before you pour the concrete:
The concrete has to be pumped into the forms. With
that in mind – will a boom and/or grout pump be able to get into
the area where you're building the system?
Rebar must be installed vertically into the footings to tie
the wall to the footings. The forms themselves, according
to engineering specs, require rebar vertically as well as horizontally.
Do you plan to face the exterior of this system with brick?
Don't forget to install the galvanized anchors before the concrete
is poured. What about installing first- or second-story floors? How do
you plan to attach the floor joists? Ledger boards need to
be installed by anchor bolts in the concrete. Don't forget those bolts!
How will you install floor joists (low wall), trusses, or rafters?
They should rest on a sill plate held in place by anchor bolts supported
by the concrete. Have you considered doors, sliders, and windows? Again,
install anchor bolts in the concrete for both the header and sill.
Be sure to sink the anchor in the concrete so when the washer and
nut have been recessed into the wood, the end of the anchor doesn't
protrude from the wood. If it does, you can always cut off the bolt
once the header and sill are firmly secured. Do your plans to create a chase for the electrical and plumbing
affect the structure of the foundation? If so, then you need
to take special measures. Consult an engineer to help plan ahead for
this. How do you plan to install the electrical: conduit or Romex?
If conduit, then it needs to be run before the concrete is poured,
including the electrical boxes. If Romex, then you need to rout a
chase 1-1/2 inches deep and use spray foam to hold the wire in place
(Figure 2-14).
Photo Courtesy of:
American ConFormIndustries, Inc. |
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Figure 2-14: Romex embedded in SmartBlock wall
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Water pipes need to be buried 1-1/2 inches as well. Anything
less than 1-1/4 inches requires you to protect the pipes from mechanical
damage. That's to prevent you from accidentally penetrating the wire
or pipe with a fastener, like a wallboard screw. The plastic ties you normally use to fasten wallboard may not
meet local thermal barrier requirements (to keep the foam from melting
within 15 minutes) in your area. If not, you'll have to do
special detailing to this area. One way is to apply adhesive directly
to the back of the wallboard. You have two choices:
Apply a continuous bead 3/8 inches in diameter, spaced not more
than 12 inches on center, starting 6 inches in from the edge.
Spot the adhesive (not less than 2 inches in diameter by 1/2 inch
thick), spaced not more than 16 inches on center. Otherwise, secure
galvanized steel strips (24 gauge) or square tabs (20 gauge) into
the concrete before the concrete is poured.
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