Alternative Building Materials
Foundations
Wall and Roof Systems
Framing Materials
Roofing Materials
Siding Materials
Insulation Materials and Radiant Heat
Doors, Windows and Trim
Interior Products
Bathrooms and Kitchens
Decking
Outdoor Products
Building to Help the Environment
About the Author
 
Abbreviations
Organizations
Who to Contact
 
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Other references on Siding Materials:

Craftsman's Construction Installation Encyclopedia eBook

2010 CD Estimator

BNI Facilities Manager's Costbook 2010

Residential Remodeling Cost Estimator 2010

Drywall Contracting


Construction Notes – Installing Cultured Stone is fairly simple, but as always, I recommend that you read the manufacturer's installation manual. They're packed full of ideas and techniques concerning their product. Here are the highlights:

  • A weather-resistant barrier must be used on all exterior and interior mortar applications except for those over masonry, concrete, or stucco.

  • During installation, place small stones next to large, place heavy-textured pieces next to smooth, and put thick stones next to thin. Also, mix stones from different boxes to create a desirable balance of individual stones on the finished project.

  • During hot or dry weather, moisten the back of each piece with a fine spray of water or a wet brush to prevent excessive moisture absorption from the mortar.

  • Over concrete, masonry or a scratch coat substrate, dampen the substrate surface area before applying mortar.

  • Protect the work site from temperatures below freezing, as mortar won't set up properly under such conditions.

  • When working over drywall, plywood, paneling and wall sheathing, a galvanized metal lath is required in addition to a weather-resistant barrier that breathes. Fasten it with nails or staples 6 inches on center and penetrating the studs a minimum of 1 inch. You don't need a scratch coat over these wall materials, but if you're using insulation board, apply it before the mortar (Figure 6-31). As you can tell by the height of this structure in this photo, the scratch coat and the finish material are being applied in sections.


Photo Courtesy of:
Cultured Stone Corporation
  Figure 6-31: Installing Drystack Ledgestone on mortar scratch coat
  • Don't spread mortar over more than a workable area (5 to 10 square feet) to prevent the mortar from "setting up" before the stone is applied.

  • Normally you would work from the bottom up. But I found it easier and cleaner to work from the top down. That way you don't drip mortar on previously-applied stone.

  • To ensure complete coverage between the mortar bed and the back surface of the stone, apply mortar to the entire back of the stone.

  • When applying corners, alternate long and short legs in the opposite directions (Figure 6-32). When required, apply the corner pieces first.

  • If additional mortar is required, use a grout bag to fill in joints.

  • Once mortar joints have become firm or thumbprint dry, point them up with a wood stick or metal jointing tool. Rake out excess mortar, compact, and seal edges around stones.


Photo Courtesy of:
Cultured Stone Corporation
  Figure 6-32: Applying precast stone at corners

Manhours – Because so many products are available, these labor estimates are based on three basic categories. The figures in parentheses represent an estimate of the amount of material that can be installed in an 8-hour day by a crew of two. The type of stone you choose and the complexity of the project can easily affect your manhours. Be sure to keep that in mind before using the figures below. These figures include mortar based on 1/2-inch joints but don't include installing scaffolding.

  • Prefitted types (160 square feet): 0.100 manhours per square foot

  • Brick veneer (120 square feet): 0.133 manhours per square foot

  • Random cast type (120 square feet): 0.133 manhours per square foot

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